Leopard Gecko

About Leopard Geckos

Area of origin: India & Pakistan
Adult size: 15-20cm
Captive lifespan: 10-20 years

If you’d like to see the setup for my Leopard Gecko, Luna, check out the video!

Housing, heating & lighting

Enclosure

Leopard Geckos are active little animals, and will be grateful for a larger than average enclosure. The minimum recommended size for an adult Leopard Gecko is 3x2x2ft, however 4x2x2ft provides better opportunity for a good heat and light gradient, as well as allowing your gecko that bit of extra space to explore. It common for Leopard Geckos in smaller enclosures to become overweight, so giving them varied substrate heights and space will help to keep them fit and healthy.

Leopard Geckos love to hide away in little rock crevices during the day, so provide as many hiding spots as you can, throughout the enclosure. Don’t worry, you’ll see your gecko come out to explore in the evening!

Substrate wise, you can use sand, clay, soil and rock- a combination of all of them is great! You may also want to provide a humid hide in the enclosure to help with shedding, however if you use a natural substrate, it’s rare to encounter any issues. If you do provide a humid hide, 50-60% humidity is plenty. I’ve used bamboo roots and sandstone to provide structure in Luna’s enclosure. The rocks hold heat throughout the evening and overnight, providing her with warm surfaces. Let’s talk more about heating.

Heating

Lots of people like to use heat mats for their Leopard Geckos, however I wouldn’t advise them. Heat from above is more natural, as the sun naturally heats the earth providing a warm surface. I prefer to use heat bulbs throughout the day, and let the substrate provide natural overnight warmth- that being said, you may need to provide night time heat if your house is a little cooler. The Arcadia Deep Heat Projector is brilliant for this purpose.

You’ll be looking to provide a heat gradient of 28°C on the warmer end, down to 22°C on the cooler side of the enclosure. Night time drops shouldn’t go below 22°C to keep your Leopard Gecko nice and comfortable.

Lighting

Here’s where things can get a little tricky with Leopard Geckos. The general consensus up until recent years, is that Leopard Geckos do not need UV lighting in captivity, however, this it’s become more and more apparent in recent years, that this is not the case. Leopard Geckos, with natural markings (not albino), thrive when given 2-6% UVB. It allows for vitamin D3 sythesis and the proper uptake of calcium to support healthy bone growth. Leopard Geckos without UVB and improper supplementation often display symptoms of Metabolic Bone Disease. If your animal is albino, you need to be careful with the level of UVB provided, or at the very least, ensure proper supplementation is occurring. Exposure to diffused UVB lighting is preferable for albino geckos.

Feeding & handling

Feeding

Leopard Geckos are insectivorous and love a variety of bugs. Mealworms, locusts, crickets, and calciworms can be used as a staple, with waxworms and other fatty bugs being used as an occasional treat. Young geckos should be fed every other day, whilst adults can be fed every 2-3 days, in moderation. Leopard Geckos have a chunky tail- this is their fat store; it should be no wider than the gecko’s body width. Your gecko should be able to stand with arms slightly bent and their belly not touch the ground beneath them, if you see the belly is on the ground, your gecko could do with losing a little weight.

Food should be supplemented with calcium and a good quality multi-vitamin. If you don’t provide UV lighting, you should also offer the correct dose of vitamin D3 alongside the calcium.

Handling

Leopard Geckos tolerate handling well if tamed from young, however they are flighty animals than can be easily scared. This can result in them dropping their tails- not a pleasant experience for you, and detrimental to their health if not cared for properly.
Personally, I handle Luna within her enclosure, so she can give me clear sign when she’s had enough. If you do choose to handle your gecko, I’d advise to do so as low to the ground as possible, to minimise risk of a fall, and away from any other pets that may cause them harm.